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SESTRORETSK
SESTRORETSK
SESTRORETSK
SESTRORETSK

GOSHA RUBCHINSKY

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IT'S A PRIVILEGE TO NOT HAVE TO WEAR A SUIT BUT
STILL
BE
IN
A
POSITION
OF
POWER.

(WE WEAR SNEAKERS BUT OUR GENERATION WON'T RUN).

IN DIRECT, CONFRONTATIONAL CONTRAST TO THE SARTORIALISM OF THE GENTLEMAN, SPORTSWEAR IS THE MOST ACTIVE AND REACTIVE OF CODES IN FASHION TODAY. WITH GRAPHIC SHAPES, BOLD ATTITUDE AND TECH-DERIVED FABRICS APPEARING ON THE MOST PROGRESSIVE SPRING/SUMMER 2010 CATWALKS, A REAL TENSION IS APPEARING IN FASHION.

SINCE HEDI SLIMANE'S DEPARTURE, THE MAN THAT, ALONG WITH RAF SIMONS BEFORE, GAVE A VOICE TO KIDS ON THE STREET, THE GENERATION GAP BETWEEN SOME SENIOR FASHION AUTHORITIES AND THE NEW GENERATION OF UPSTARTS IS WIDENING. THE PRESENCE OF WHAT YOUTH WANT FROM FASHION HAS BECOME INCREASINGLY ERADICATED, BAR DESIGNERS SUCH AS RICCARDO TISCI WHOSE AGGRESSIVE LOOKS AND INTEGRATION OF A SPORTS/STREET ELEMENT TOTALLY REFLECTS THE MOOD OF THE MOMENT. TEENS AND TWENTYSOMETHINGS IDENTIFY WITH HIS MESSAGE BECAUSE IT SPEAKS DIRECTLY TO THEM, THEIR FRUSTRATION, PREOCCUPATIONS, HOPES AND FEARS.

"I BELIEVE TRADITIONAL FORMS OF LUXURY ARE OUTDATED FOR OUR GENERATION," SAYS CASSETTE PLAYA'S CARRI MUNDEN. MUNDEN BEING A CATALYST AND DOCUMENTER OF A SCENE, A NIKE COLLABORATOR AND A DIMINUTIVE, PEROXIDE TORNADO IN BIG SPECS. HER CONTRIBUTION, AS THAT OF SELECT OTHERS, HAS BEEN LARGELY OVERLOOKED IN AN INDUSTRY FOCUSED ON THE WHIMS OF PUTTING BUSINESSMEN IN VELVET BOW TIES AND EXPENSIVE CARDIGANS.

"IT'S BRAVER AND MORE 'FUTURE' TO ASPIRE TO CONCEPTS OF ART AND TECHNOLOGY RATHER THAN A BESPOKE SUIT AND LV LUGGAGE," SHE CONTINUES. "IT'S A PRIVILEGE TO NOT HAVE TO WEAR A SUIT BUT STILL BE IN A POSITION OF POWER. THE SAME WAY THAT WORKING-CLASS MODS SUBVERTED THE SUIT, TAKING THE ATTRIBUTES OF CONFORMITY BY CHARGING THEM WITH MENACE AND THE THREAT OF VIOLENCE. SPORTSWEAR NOW IS NO LONGER ABOUT PERFORMANCE BUT A REFUSAL TO CONFORM."

IT'S TRUE THAT THIS STANDS WHETHER YOU GET TRACKPANTS FROM YOUR LOCAL JJB IN ANY DEAD-END TOWN OR TAKE A MORE COMPLEX PIECE FROM A DARK HERO LIKE RICK OWENS. THEY MIGHT BE DIFFERENT ENDS OF THE SPECTRUM BUT THIS GRAPHIC LANGUAGE HAS A PRESENCE IN BOTH.

EVERYONE HAS STOPPED DREAMING BUT A FEW. SPORTSWEAR IS SO REVELANT BECAUSE IT'S FUNCTIONAL AND PURPOSEFUL, GREAT FOR FIGHTING A SUFFOCATING WORLD IN.

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IM WESTEN NICHTS NEUES MIXTAPE
SELECTED BY JULIAN HOFFMANN

7 DAY / 100 DOWNLOADS LIMITED EDITION

THIS MORTAL COIL. SIXTEEN DAYS (MODERN ENGLISH COVER REPRISE).
B-MOVIE. NOWHERE GIRL.
VISAGE. FADE TO GREY.
THE VYLLIES. GIVE ME A NAME.
BARTOK. INSANITY.
REMA-REMA. INSTRUMENTAL.
BODY 11. FIRE.
MARTIAL CANTEREL. WINDSCREEN.
XENO & OAKLANDER. COLD FOREVER.
LEAGUE OF NATIONS. FADE (12" VERSION).
MALARIA. KALTES KLARES WASSER.
ABWÄRTS. SEI FROH.
DEUTSCH AMERIKANISCHE FREUNDSCHAFT. ALLE GEGEN ALLE.
TRISOMIE 21. THE LAST SONG.

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WESTBLOCK MIXTAPE
SELECTED BY JULIAN HOFFMANN

7 DAY / 100 DOWNLOADS LIMITED EDITION

PROJECT:KOMAKINO. CRASH.
MODERN ENGLISH. 16 DAYS.
A CERTAIN RATIO. CRIPPLED CHILD.
THE CHAMELEONS. LESS THAN HUMAN.
DEPARTMENT S. I WANT.
CCCP. CURAMI.
SCARS. BONE ORCHARD.
ABECEDARIANS. THEY SAID TOMORROW.
CHOIR INVISIBLE. QUIET PLACE.
THE SOUND. WHIRLPOOL.
MODERN EON. SPLASH.
THE CULTURAL DECAY. BUSINESS BUSINESS / FRAGILE OBJECT.
SCARLETS. MOSCOVIAN.

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EIGHTY-EIGHT



NINETY



NINETY-TWO

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THE ETERNAL

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REPEAT

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DON'T

GIVE

WAY

TO



FEAR

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1/11/09 14/12/09

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LASER-ENGRAVED CRYSTAL MONOLITH

POLYMIRROR STAINLESS STEEL PEDESTAL

LED INSTALLATION
















ITEM IDEM

MOUNT BLUSHMORE

MOUNT B L U S H M O R E

M O U N T B L U S H M O R E


A POSTCARD FROM ITEM IDEM © 2009 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED


DYSFASHIONAL PARIS
PHOTOGRAPHY HELENE BOZZI

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